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Chap. IV.
AABEN-RAA.
53
branch of the sea, and has been separated by a dyke at
great expense. Gravenstein in the last century was
celebrated for its gardens as well as for its menagerie—
at that time, as in England, a necessary appendage to
all semi-royal establishments. The lake is situated on
a stratum of rotten stone, of much repute for the cleaning
of copper and brass—though I must own I quite forgot
to examine the matter: and then we made our way on
for Aaben-raa, or Apenrade. Country again ugly until
we gained the high post-road, which led direct to the
city of our destination. A large vessel lay on the stocks
in course of construction, and the bathing apparatus still
remained for those who were not deterred by the north
wind and autumnal freshness of the weather.
I do not think the city of Aaben-raa (open road), as
the Danes call it—it bears for its shield three red
herrings on a field argent—was ever remarkable for
anything particular. It got occasionally burnt to the
ground in the middle ages, during the everlasting
quarrels between the Danish kings and their Holstein
vassals.
The family of Gfintherode were in former days the
grand possessors of land, and lords powerful of this
neighbourhood. High and mighty seigneurs they were,
and neither understood a joke nor relished one. I find
an amusing account of a lawsuit between Frederic
Gfintherode, of that ilk, and the parish priest of
Biol-derup, a neighbouring village. It appears the worthy
pastor had kindly succoured some celebrated artist who,
during an illness on his passage through the country,
to express his gratitude for kindness received, painted
an altarpiece for the parish-church—a representation
of the Last Judgment. Great was the delight of the
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