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Chap. XXXVI.
SKAGEN.
107
the wear and tear of wind or ocean. Pontoppidan
promised us sea-cats, sea-mice, and sea-wolves. This
part of Jutland, as far as the village of Aalbæk, is
more densely populated by the peasant tribe than any
we have yet visited — gaards, farm-buildings, cattle
in abundance; and then later we pass by a wreck—a
ship sunk among the shoals; dip into a quick-sand,
and are dragged out again; then drive by the manor
of Lindholm, the most northern of all Jutland strong
holds, in Queen Margaret’s time, of the noble house of
Bugge. Twilight comes on ; the lighthouse of Skagen
is faintly visible on the horizon. We drive now inland
—brown moor, relieved by shining sand, and dunes
glistening in the evening shades like snow. Pass by
old Skagen church-tower, half buried beneath a waste
—boats on the shore, nets hung to dry. We enter
the village, or rather settlement, toil our way through
the "sand; each cottage stands by itself on a square
plot of land, on espalier-frames; to a network of ropes
hang fish drying by hundreds; corn too and potatoes
flourish. At last we reach a small, long, one-storied
house, embowered in trees—the kro—our
resting-place. We knock. Hallo I No answer. What
traveller ever arrives at Skagen after midnight? At
length the master appears, and later women but half
awake; in ten minutes our beds are prepared, and
before long we are asleep.
SKAGEN.
July 1st—We wade out through the sand, knee-deep,
to our bath before breakfast—fish split and drying in
their netting-frames, and something else, by no means
grateful to the smell: they look like peas ; so I ask a
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