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114
FREDERIKSHAVN.
Chap. XXXVI.
deuces to the lower as well as to the higher classes is
done by the natives themselves in conjunction with
the authorities. It is a pleasure to see how happy the
lower classes are : how they enjoy the advantages of
air, shade, and water, of which the inhabitants of our
own large cities are debarred. The Danes should
be a contented and happy people, as I believe them
to be; for never in any land will you see so little,
indeed, such an entire absence, of poverty—perhaps
among the higher classes not the great rent-rolls we
meet with in England, but such a general appearance
of “ aisance ” among all—from the highest to the
humblest cottager.
The roughness of the climate causes the houses to be
mostly fresh coloured externally every spring, and the
constant burning of stoves during the long winters renders
frequent paint and whitewash in the rooms a matter of
course. This accounts for the exquisite neatness of
the dwellings. When you do meet with a cottage of
bad appearance, it is sure to be a condemned tenement.
Don’t judge its inhabitants hastily, but enter its doors
—“ look up the chimneyand when you see three or
four sides of bacon smoking for winter’s consumption,
a store full of potatoes, a chest full of good stout Sunday
clothes, rest assured poverty is not there, and that in a
year another cottage will arise, all black and yellow
timber stripes, fresh from its ruins. Perhaps at this
very moment the peasant is employed cooking his
sunburnt bricks, and has purchased his double window, all
ready framed and glazed, at the neighbouring
markettown.
We passed by our old splendid chaussée on the
Hjbrring road, as far as Knivholt, and then, turning to
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