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220
FANØ.
Chap. XLV.
their beds till they set off on a new expedition. It
was the same at Skagen and at Agger. The women
perform all the heavy work at home—but not at the
expense of their complexions. Anything more
ludicrous cannot be imagined than a troop of these
black-masked creatures returning home, driving then* cows
from the downs. It seems to affect the ewes, too, for
we met several new-born lambs white as the driven
snow, with black masks exactly like then’ mistresses.
The children are very handsome, and the girls, at the
cottage windows, prettier than anything we have cdme
across for many a day. They have quite an Oriental
type of countenance—long eyes, dark, fendu à Tamande,
aquiline nose, fine and delicate mouth, a dark but
brilliant complexion; even the fashion of the masks (though
our grandmothers of the eighteenth century never
walked or “ rode ” out without wearing these ££ loups,”
as they were then termed) give the impression as if
they were some remnant of customs imported from an
Eastern land; and what with the Varangians and early
connexion with Tm-key, it is not at all impossible that
it may be so.
The village we are now dwelling in is that of Nordby;
not desirable as a residence; it is too like Skagen, all
sand to walk upon, or rather wade in. The second
village at the extreme end of the island is called
Sønderbo. On arriving at Nordby we were surprised
to find straw laid down in every direction. Very
refined, remarked one of the party, quite like
Belgravia ; some Fanø bride, no doubt, just brought to
bed of a son and heir; when, as we proceeded on our
way, the straw increased in thickness, and the wheels
glided softly over it, we discovered our mistake—it was
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