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Chap. XLVIII. ST. GEORGE AND THE DRAGON.
267
that way; we betook ourselves in the opposite direction,
seduced by the tower of a milk-white church rising from
the woods which embower it: St. Jørgens it is called.
Here the wicked Danes declare that St. George fought
the Dragon. Our English St. George! a great fib! as
all men know the combat took place somewhere near
Tripoli. Dragon or no dragon, it is a lovely spot the
village of St. Jørgens. There has been in former times
an hospital attached to the church, and the view from
the cemetery is charming. We stopped to gaze at the
old square court of the præstegaard, the entrance-door
shaded by two limes of glorious growth; and were in full
admiration of its picturesque appearance, hay-loaded
cart and all, when the son of the pastor came out, and
begged us to walk in the garden and see the new
house his father had lately completed. The old gaard
was to come down. It was an excellent modern house
—of greater appearance, and not ugly; no house in
Denmark is ever ugly—with its high-pitched roofs and
gables, but a sad exchange for the old limes, the square
court, and the parlour-windows on the other side, with
the open balcony commanding the blue waters. “ Chacun
a son gout, et tons les gouts sont respectablesso say
the French.
These villages of Funen, with their abundant
fruitgardens and orchards, remind me of Calvados, and
sometimes of our own more primitive hamlets of
Devonshire, by the coast-side : it is rare elsewhere to meet
rich cultivation and sea combined. The peasant-women
too wear an eccentric cap—not like the Cauchois, but
much frilled behind — and such a bonnet! like a
japanned coal-scuttle, formed of glazed and painted
carton, bent: you may purchase them flat in the shops.
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