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THROUGH NORWAY WITH A
KNAPSACK.
CHAPTER I.
The Scandinavian coast—Christiansand—Norwegian architecture—
Night in the North—The Christiania Fiord—Christiania ; its
streets, houses, and shops— The Klinkenberg, or Vauxhall of
Christiania—Popular amusements and indications of character—
Absence of police and passport interference—Independence of
Norwegian hotel-keepers—Interest in English affairs exhibited
by the Norwegians—Norwegian Lutheran churches—Botanical
gardens and popular museums—Necessity of popular instruction
in science and natural history—Absence of extreme poverty
and squalor in Christiania—Politeness of the Norwegians—
English physiognomy.
After a rougli passage of about forty-eight hours from
Hull, by a screw steam-packet of extraordinary rolling
and pitching capabilities, we come in sight of the
Norwegian coast, presenting a wild broken shore of gray,
rounded, rocky ridges, with smooth, slippery-looking
surfaces near the sea-edge, where the waves run up the
slopes and slide over the points of the low promontories
as though they were greasy. There are no sands, no
pebble beach; the breaking waves make no roar and rattle
here, as they do among our chalk-flint pebbles; they
B
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