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46 THROUGH NORWAY WITII A KNAPSACK.
imminent, I reluctantly gave it up, ancl determined
rather to sleep out of doors altogether. Accordingly I
returned to the kitchen, inquired how much to pay, and
asked the distance to the next station. This produced
a general turmoil throughout the establishment. The
old woman uncoiled again, and entered into a state of
complete consciousness; the dirty man got out of bed,
pipe and all, to see what was the matter; the girl
disappeared, and presently returned with a comparatively
clean male, who appeared seriously concerned at my
discontent, and said something in a scolding tone to the
old woman; he then showed me to a state bedroom,
where all was clean and comfortable enough. I accepted
this accommodation, and slept soundly.
At about six in the morning the old woman,
completely roused from hybernation, entered my room with
a bewildered aspect and suggested coffee, which the
young woman brought immediately. At every place
where T had slept since leaving Christiania a small
table stood by the bedside, and early in the morning
a young woman entered without any of the
preliminaries of knocking, and placed upon the table a bowl or
cup of strong coffee, and a bowl of cream; both of
which I dutifully consumed before getting up, though I
dislike breakfasting in bed. This, however, is not
considered breakfast, but merely an awakener; breakfast,
or frokost, being provided afterwards.
I am doubtful whether to regard this as a Norwegian
custom, or to suppose that the first English tourist who
visited Norway was a luxurious animal and insisted
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