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124 THROUGH NORWAY WITII A KNAPSACK.
There is considerable variety in the expression of
features of the Lapps here: some are very like idiots
in feature, and, from the size and form of the head,
cannot be far removed from idiotcy in mental capacity;
others express considerable intelligence; but with the
exception of the proud five-feet aristocrat on board the
steamer, I have seen none who exhibit any considerable
amount of energy. They all have small brains, even
in proportion to the body; and an expression of
extreme gentleness and amiability is common to them all:
they appeal to one’s sympathies most* powerfully.
After visiting the consul, as in duty bound, some
of the party making sundry purchases of skins of white
bears, silver foxes, &c., we, at the consul’s
recommendation, ascended a hill called the Thief Mountain. It
is about 1,500 feet high, with a good deal of snow
upon its sides, which has to be scrambled over with
that sort of hard labour usual in ascending steep snow
inclines. The heat was most oppressive even on the
snow. The mountain commands a good view of the
low hills and bluff headlands of the coast; which,
however, are not very striking: we were told that the
North Cape is to be seen from it, but this I doubt.
The island of Mageroe is just visible on the horizon;
but as the North Cape forms its northern extremity, it
does not seem possible to see it from the south.
Tourists who are excessively anxious to say that they
have seen the North Cape may, perhaps, satisfy a
pliable conscience, and save the week’s delay by
ascending this hill and looking over the place where the North
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