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REMARKABLE GLACIERS.
131
the sight of a Frenchman caricaturing, by attempting
to imitate them.
The great point to be achieved on the return journey
from Hammerfest, is so to divide the sleeping and
waking hours as to see that part of the coast which
was missed during the sleeping time of the last passage.
The grand scenery commences again from the
entrance to the Oxfiord; where, as before, a party of
Lapps were perched on the moraine which supports the
flagstaff’s. All the stations at which the steamer halts
have the Norwegian flag flying. There is, however,
no necessity for any such distinguishing mark. Even
in a thick mist, a sailor with a keen nose can steer
directly to one of these stations at this season of the
year ; the odour of stewing cod-livers is so decided,
and so far diffused from the centre at which it is
concentrated.
At about four o’clock on the second morning of our
return journey wTe passed some remarkable glaciers
near to the Havnes station: one of them very nearly
reached the sea. We were near enough to examine
tliem pretty fully, and with the aid of telescopes, or
opera-glasses, to look down the blue crevasses which rib
the lower parts. They exhibit the whole phenomena
of glaciers at one glance : there is the snow field, or
neve, above, the source from which the true glacier is
derived; the deep lateral valley narrowing downwards
—one of the essential conditions of glacier formation;—
then the ice torrent with its sharp billows and blue
chasms, filling this valley and carrying with it in its
k 2
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