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152 THROUGH NORWAY WITII A KNAPSACK.
all strong pleasurable sensations. It is at such a time as
this one feels unutterable pity for the pallid debauchee,
who, by the aid of dainty cookery and costly wines,
and feeble in-door revelry, makes such painful efforts
to experience a wretched imitation of this genuine and
delicious sensuous enjoyment.
The fortnight on board the steamer and in Trondhjem
had been tome a period of effeminate, sloppy indulgence;
but now I cast all this aside, and begin the true
enjoyment of travelling. My breakfast this morning was a
pennyworth of bread, bought in the town and earned
in my pocket till hunger drew it forth, when I sat
upon a stone and eat it: never was a banquet more
delicious.
The first few miles of the route was the same as that
by which I came to Trondhjem from the Dovre Fjeld;
then the road bends over a hill commanding a fine view
of the Guldal (the reader should remember that " dal"
means valley, and all places with names thus ending are
valleys,) and the valley of the Nid. Both of these
rivers, the Gula and the Nid, are seen winding through
the alluvium they have deposited in the form of the
terraced banks I have before described, with groups of
farms upon these small plains, churches here and there,
and rich wooded hills above. The waterfall I visited
yesterday was marked by the cloud of spray that hangs
above it, and the fall itself was seen from a still higher
point of the road.
The similarity of the terraces in both valleys is very
remarkable; it is pretty clear that these valleys were
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