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172 THROUGH NORWAY WITII A KNAPSACK.
elegance and luxury! Truly the rich man who is not kind
and courteous, and thoughtful of the feelings of his less
favoured fellow-men, is the most ungrateful animal that
lives; for even the caged tiger is gentle to the attendant
who brings his daily food.
The charge for boats is twenty skillings per man per
Norsk mile, and eight skillings for the boat. Two men
are always required for anything beyond a mere ferry
distance in rough weather; three are often necessary,
even when the tourist pulls in aid ; the minimum cost is,
therefore, about Is. 9d. per Norsk mile of seven English
miles, and to this must be added the " tilsigelse," or fee
to the station-master, for finding and engaging the
boatmen, as the whole payment they receive is their own:
the " tilsigelse " is four skillings, or about 2d., for each
journey.
I know of nothing more luxurious than a boat ride
after some days’ walking. Any kind of riding is
enjoyable then ; but to lie down in the stern of a boat that is
gliding over smooth water, and to revel in beautiful
scenery, without any effort, when the muscles are capable
of positively enjoying repose, is the most enjoyable of
all. My destination was the Bolsaet station, about two
Norsk miles from the starting point. The first half of the
journey is along the narrow arm of the fiord which runs
up into the Surren dal, then out into the main fiord, and
across another and wider branch. While in the
Sur-rendal Fiord we kept close to the precipitous rocks with
which the richly-wooded mountains that dip into the
fiord terminate. The scenery is fine throughout. I had
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