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CHAPTER XI.
"Gammel Ost" a new sensation for epicures—A royal cortege—Lost
011 the fjeld — False alarm—The "Cock of the mountain"—
Risks of solitary mountaineering—Out for the night—Hard
work on an empty stomach—Difficulty, delusion, and
disappointment — Semi-starvation and its effects — The pastor of
Lom — The social position and influence of the Norwegian
clergy—The " pocket-pistol " a dangerous weapon.
My dinner at tlie Horgheim station consisted of "
smoe-rogbröd " and " gammel ost," bread and butter and old
clieese: charge 8 skillings, or 3\d. The gammel ost is a
celebrated Norwegian dish, and this at Horgheim the
finest example of it I have met with. It is a peculiar
sort of cheese, made, I believe, with goats’ milk mixed
with herbs and sugar. When new, it is very detestable,
but after many years’ keeping it decomposes, and forms
a sort of condiment rather than food. It is sprinkled
in a moist powder, upon bread and butter. When in
perfection, it is neither mouldy, moist, nor mitey; it is
of a uniform pale brick colour, just capable of
crumbling, and has a rich anchovy-pastish flavour with a faint
suggestion of parmesan. If Fortnum and Mason, or
Crosse and Blackwell, were to import some of this, put
it into eccentric jars, and charge a sufficiently high
price for it, our epicures would run into ecstacies about
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