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238 THROUGH NORWAY WITII A KNAPSACK.
place. I should recommend all tourists coming to
Norway to visit the Justedal if possible; and, if at this
season, to bring some food with them. Being an
inhabited valley, I was reckless in this respect; started
early, and hungry, walked on some miles before I
reached a house, and passed that disdainfully in hope
of finding a better one; but in this was disappointed.
Finally, on becoming more moderate in my
expectations, I knocked at the next and tried the door, but
found it bolted ; all the people were away up at the
saeters or the distant " eng," or upper hay ground, on
which at this season the harvest is gathered. I tried
other houses with the same result all the day through,
and was thus compelled to make breakfast and dinner
on raw (stolen) turnips and wild bilberries, which last
grow in great abundance and are remarkably fine.
There are two other glaciers at this part of the
valley. The Nygaard glacier comes down a winding
valley, and spreads out finely below. Like that of
Lodal, its former shore of heaped-up moraine is most
distinctly marked; the strand between this and its
present limits is a desolate plain of rock, smoothed
and grooved by the former glacier, and the stones
imbedded in it. Below this is the Krone! al or Berset
glacier. There is a wonderfully fine amphitheatre of
rocks at the lower part of the valley.
I reached the mouth of the valley shortly after sunset,
and was surprised at finding a downright hotel there—
something absolutely luxurious—a place where cookery
is understood, and real bread may even be obtained,
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