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CHAPTER XV.
The Tyssedal and Skieggedal—Glacier ruins on a grand scale—An
unvisited region and neglected waterfalls—A singular glacier
and its mode of formation—Influence of the amount of rainfall
in determining the height of the snow-line—Odde—On the
practice of maintaining footmen and other male domestics—
Evidences of general honesty—A recently arrived pastor—
Position of the Norwegian pastor—Importance of practical
education to the clergy—A hunt for a lodging—The Haukelid
Fjekle—A wet bed—How to pass a wet night on the fjeld—
Norwegian mode of preparing coffee—A hint for English
cottagers—A returned emigrant.
I landed at Tyssedal, at the mouth of the Skieggedal,
where, according to a Norwegian I met on the way,
there is one of the finest waterfalls in Norway-—one not
mentioned in Murray, and apparently unknown to
English tourists. The only mention I have found of it
in any hook, is by Professor Forbes, who heard its roar
(or what his guide supposed to be its roar) when
crossing the Folgefond, which is above twelve miles distant
as the crow flies.
I walked, or rather climbed, up the valley by a
difficult track, over magnificent glacier ruins—sometimes
struggling among moraine boulders, then across vast
slopes of bare, smoothed rocks, so steep as to be almost
dangerous : some parts of the latter would be quite
so, or even impassable, but for trunks of trees laid
across and fastened together, so as to afford foothold.
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