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284 THROUGH NORWAY WITII A KNAPSACK.
anybody but mad Englishmen: amongst whom I have
evidently been classed by all the Norwegians to whom I
have communicated my intention of finishing my tour
by walking across the wildest part of this wild
region.
The Totak Vand was my next destination; but the
high roacl makes a considerable bend to Vinje, to avoid
which I determined to go across the country: especially
having been informed that there exists a direct track to a
farm called Kosthveit. I walked on, accordingly, by the
road until I reached a bridge, and 011 crossing it found
the track described; which, though not marked in my
map, is much more definite than many that are there
marked. It ascended a high ridge, and on the way up I
had a luxurious feast of wild strawberries, which are
finer and more abundant here than I have found them
anywhere else in Norway. The summit of the ridge
commands a fine view, down a valley, of many small
lakes. After this bogs prevail—very soft bogs, and
small stagnant pools in all the many hollows of a mossy
field which appears to be but recently thawed from its
winter layer of snow. This style of country continues
to the Totak Vand, which is a lake of considerable
dimensions, some fifteen miles long, and from one to
six miles wide. With much difficulty I obtained a boat.
Being quite beyond the region of regulated tariffs or
posting, or any kind of travelling, I had to hire a boat
used by the farmer for his personal transport only.
He was evidently doubtful whether I was asking him
to row me across as a gratuitous favour, or whether
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