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CHAPTER XVIII.
The Tin Sjoen — Tellemark costume — A sociable squirrel — Pine
forests—Dirt, rags, and finery—A few* facts brought forward to
indicate that tourists with weak stomachs should not visit the
Tellemark — Solid chairs — Breakfast with the bonder — An
investigation of the contents of my knapsack—Sudden change
in the social aspect of the country—Wine-sliops, commerce, and
mining—Kongsberg—A public-house and Sunday amusement—
The long town of Drammen—My reception by the hotel-keepers
of Drammen—Home-like scenery and its associations—Gaiety
of Christiania — Family affinity between ourselves and the
Norwegians and Danes—Back to London.
The next morning I walked down the valley to Mael, on
the Lake of Tin Sjoen, then took a boat to Haakenaes,
where there is a good station, and from thence by
another boat I proceeded to Graver, ten miles farther
down the lake. The boatmen were two fine-looking
fellows, tall, and powerfully built, and with the large and
strongly-marked features that characterize the peasants
of the Tellemark. Their short jackets and waistcoats
were as usual thickly covered with silver buttons, and
at the knees of their knee-breeches there were as many
more buttons as could be placed there. The lake is
rather a fine one, bounded by high wooded hills and
fertile little bays, with farms upon them in every bend
of the shore. Wild waterfowl abound here, and we
were much amused with a squirrel that followed the
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