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324 THROUGH NORWAY WITII A KNAPSACK.
out of the other hotels as a rogue and vagabond ; he
Ö o 7
laughed, and assured me that he, who was a man of the
world and accustomed to Englishmen, could distinguish
an English gentleman at a glance, whatever might be
the state of his clothes; whereupon I called for another
bottle of ale, and we all three hobnobbed together, then
had more ale and an hour’s gossip. The shoemaker
would not stop to supper, and was only prevented by
physical force from paying for all the ale, though he
had already paid for one of the previous bottles.
The next morning after much walking I finally
emerged from the long street into the country, which is
very fertile and well cultivated. At the Gulbeck station
I hired a carriole and horse to the next station, a
distance of If Norsk mile, about ten English statute
miles; the charge for which was 2 marks 6 skillings, or
about 2s. in English money. The principal difficulty I
encountered was in the disposal of my legs, which have
to be somehow arranged between the front of the vehicle
and the tail of the horse, either dangling or resting on
the shafts. The chief excitement of carriole
travelling is the running down the hills, which Norwegian
ponies perform in a manner peculiar to themselves: the
steeper the hill the greater the speed; the rougher the
road and the larger the loose blocks of stones upon it,
the greater is the sense of security enjoyed by the
horse, and the more frolicsome are his movements. As
there are no other springs than the elasticity of the
shafts, the tourist may or may not, according to taste,
participate in the animal’s enthusiasm.
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