Full resolution (JPEG) - On this page / på denna sida - VII. Lapland
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there to the nearest church village to join the
Lapp school once more.
Ristin walked in front of me in her long white
reindeer tunic and red woollen cap. Round her
waist she wore a broad leather belt, embroidered
with blue and yellow thread and studded with
buckles and squares of solid silver. Suspended
from her belt hung her knife, her tobacco pouch
and her mug. I also noticed a small axe for
cutting wood stuck under the belt. She wore
leggings of soft, white reindeer-skin, fastened to her
wide skin-breeches. Her small feet were stuck
in dainty, white reindeer shoes neatly trimmed
with blue thread. On her back she carried her
laukos, a knapsack of birch-bark containing her
various belongings and our provisions. It was
twice as big as my own rucksack but she did not
seem to mind it in the least. She moved down on
the steep slope with the rapid, noiseless step of
an animal, jumped, swift as a rabbit over a fallen
tree-trunk or a pool of water. Now and then she
sprang, agile as a goat, on to a steep rock, looking
round in all directions. At the foot of the hill
we came upon a broad stream, I had hardly time
to wonder how we were to get across before
she was in the water up to her hips, there was
nothing for me to do but to follow her in the
ice-cold water. I soon got warm again as we
ascended the steep opposite slope at an amazing
speed. She hardly ever spoke and it mattered
little, for I had the greatest difficulty to
understand what she said. Her Swedish was as bad as
my Laplandish. We sat down on the soft moss
to an excellent meal of rye biscuits, fresh butter
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