The next breakfast surprise is Torghatten, an island with a huge hole piercing its cliffs, and then The Seven Sisters —- seven mighty peaks on the coast of Helgeland. The cruise continues along the wild mountain coast of Nordland. At Hestmanngy (Horseman Island, shaped like a horse and its rider) we cross the Arctic Circle to the ship’s salute. We are now in the realm of the Midnight Sun. We pass up West Fjord, with the mountain wall of the Lofotens on our left. The Lofoten Isles, that strange island realm whose alpine heights are silhouetted in the form of the upturned notches of a mighty saw. One towering peak, Vaagekallen («<kall» — an old man) stands out above all the others. The Nordlander, fighting a hard battle for existence amid this wild gran- deur, lives in a wonderful world of saga. Here is an ancient legend: One day Vaagekallen saw that the Horseman was preparing to set forth to woo one of The Seven Sisters. He grew jealous and shot at the Horseman, but he hit only his hat, which flew off and fell to earth farther south (Torghatten). From Bod¢ to Troms¢ the scenery is of impres- sive beauty. The Lofoten pinnacles far out to sea on the one hand, and on the other the lofty peaks, such as the Stétinn, far inland, appear to sail with us all the way. Troms¢ is the centre of fishing and hunting in the Arctic. Here lived Skipper Elling Carlsen who 187