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CHAPTER VII.
The northern face of Europe — Its conformation contradicts the
hypothesis of a radial glaciation of Europe from the Pole southwards —
Arctic musquitoes — An explanation of their abundance —
Suggestions for the economic building of summer excursion steam-packets—
Hammerfest again — Lapp courtship — Winter quarters of the fisher
Lapps — A German Mars and a Lappish Venus — Intermingling of
Lapps and Norwegians — Coast glaciers — Tromsö again —
Destruction of the Hôtel du Nord — Our embassy to the camp of the
Laplanders — Successful negotiations for a special reindeer gathering
and performance — We revisit the camp — Sleeping beauties —
Astonishing an old friend — Primitive machinery for spinning
reindeer tendons — We breakfast en famille in the Lapp hut —
Driving the deer — Illusions relative to reindeer — Lassoing,
punching, and milking the deer — A beautiful Lapp baby — The origin
of the physical hardihood of the Lapps — Social status of Lapp
women .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Page 137
CHAPTER VIII.
Raised beaches in the Malangerfjord — American fellow-passengers —
Smoke-room confidences concerning the feeling of the South —
A practical hint to intending emigrants — Virginian welcome to
English visitors and settlers — My meteorological snubbing —
Disappearance of the sea serpent and reappearance of the Seven Sisters
— Bishop Pontoppidan’s account of the great sea serpent, and the
still greater Kraken .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 164
CHAPTER IX.
Suggestion for a new series of fortnightly Arctic expeditions — How
ordinary tourists may reach as high latitudes as were attained by
the ‘Alert’ and ‘Discovery’ — Scientific advantages of such
expeditions — Trondhjem again — Changes in Norwegian hotels —
Norwegian cutlery — The “tollkniv,” and its many uses — “Skaal”
— A classical saturnalia — Emulating the Vikings — A railway that
may propitiate Ruskin — Splendid railway panorama — A plea for
common-sense railways in England .. .. .. .. .. .. 183
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