Full resolution (JPEG) - On this page / på denna sida - CHAPTER I. Contrasts — Development of Norwegian tourist traffic — Passengers on the ‘Argo,’ and their tub of introduction — Whales — The Norwegian coast — Stavanger — Glacier vestiges in the High Street — Bergen — Indoor ivy — A Church of England Service conducted in the spirit of Primitive Christianity — Northward Ho! — Aalesund — Christiansund — Delay and disappointment — Trondhjem — Northern luxury — The Cathedral — The Falls of the Nid — A terraced valley — Prosperous farmers — The “Störhaus”— Glacial origin of the terraces.
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responsibilities left behind at home, and further and
tremendous responsibilities here on the Scandinavian
coast; having actually and deliberately dared to
act as guide, companion, and protector to six
otherwise unprotected ladies throughout a rather
extensive Norwegian tour. I need scarcely add that
the luggage under my supervision this time
exceeds a pocketful, though, to do the ladies justice,
I must say that they have been very moderate—
i. e. for ladies.
In 1856 I courted hardship, went out of my way
in search of it, selected the North because hardship
was most attainable there; now my object is
exactly reversed, it is not hardship, but (I should
like to say “softship,” but dare not) the utmost
attainable Scandinavian representatives of comfort
and luxury are the leading objects of my anxiety.
In my first journey I was a fore-cabin passenger;
now, of course, I am a first-class passenger.
There were other contrasts besides these. The
“wave-line” abomination that swung me across
in 1856 was a vile intoxicated tub, so celebrated
for its hateful rolling that the owners had
difficulty in finding a crew to sail in it, and changed
its name accordingly to the ‘Oscar’ on its return
from the Crimea. The steward was seasick, broke
his nose and several plates in the course of one of
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