Full resolution (JPEG) - On this page / på denna sida - CHAPTER I. Contrasts — Development of Norwegian tourist traffic — Passengers on the ‘Argo,’ and their tub of introduction — Whales — The Norwegian coast — Stavanger — Glacier vestiges in the High Street — Bergen — Indoor ivy — A Church of England Service conducted in the spirit of Primitive Christianity — Northward Ho! — Aalesund — Christiansund — Delay and disappointment — Trondhjem — Northern luxury — The Cathedral — The Falls of the Nid — A terraced valley — Prosperous farmers — The “Störhaus”— Glacial origin of the terraces.
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Neither broadcloth nor fine linen is visible
among them; not more than one in six has a
shirt collar; cravats of all kind are utterly
abjured; coloured flannel shirts and coarse frieze, or
other loose useful woollen garments, are universal.
The small amount of English reserve which at
first prevailed on the night of embarking was
effectually dispersed at an early hour on the
following morning by a bare-necked clergyman in
knickerbockers announcing to all concerned that
he had discovered a “tub” near the engine room,
and that the fire-hose was available. The rejoicing
was universal, and we all became fully introduced
to each other in the course of arranging our turns
to the bath, or the more popular hose, from which
a grinning Norwegian sailor projected upon us a
luxurious salt-water engine-pumped douche of
about 2½ inches in diameter.
The luggage strewed about the men’s cabin
consisted chiefly of knapsacks, gun-cases, fishing
rods, ice-axes, and short pipes. No
approximation to a dressing case was visible. One man
carried a razor.
During the latter part of the voyage we saw
six whales, most of them of large size. The coast
has the bare rocky beachless and sandless
character that usually prevails in Norway.
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