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the present sea-shore. It would then deposit its
moraine across the mouth of the valley, and this
moraine would darn up the waters which such a
valley must necessarily receive from the drainage
of its hilly sides. Llyn Idwal in North Wales is
a lake thus formed.
We reached Hammerfest at 5 p.m. Instead of
progressing like Tromsö, Hammerfest appears to
me to have declined somewhat since my last visit.
The main street, the houses, and especially the
hotel, have grown more dull and dingy, and there
are fewer signs of activity in the port.
The most striking difference was the absence of
the little people, the fisher Lapps. Instead of the
fleet of boats, their owners and inhabitants,
described in ‘Through Norway with a Knapsack,’
I could only find two boats and about half-a-dozen
specimens of their inhabitants, and these rather
dirtier than the average.
We called on Mr. Consul Robertson, at his new
house—quite an Arctic mansion. I felt bound to
do this for auld lang syne, although I had already
learned that the old custom of calling upon the
consul, which in 1856 was a matter of almost
necessary courtesy, has now become more honoured
in the breach than the observance, as the number
of tourists, even here at the ultima thule of British
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