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THROUGH LAPLAND. 5
fon had a gaiety and natural vivacity very uncommon in a coun-
try like this. Her figure was fine, though very tall, being near
fix feet in height. She fpoke with cafe, and replied to our dumb
fhew by {mart repartees, at which we laughed upon truft, but
which our interpreter found excellent, and full of wit and humour.
The village is fituated upon a {mall ifland, which is the property of
the inhabitants. The ifland is formed by the river Muonio, which
here divides itfelf into two branches. The people cultivate barley,
and have fome meadow grounds with excellent hay.
The firft favour the women conferred upon us was to fill our
room fo full of fmoke, that it brought tears in our eyes. Their
tention was good, they wifhed to deliver us from the molefta-
tion of the gnats; and as a mean of very effectual prevention, they
made a fecond fire near the entrance of the apartment to ftop the
frefh myriads of thofe infeéts which were ready to ruth in upon
us from without. A thick fmoke is an object of great luxury in this
part of the world. Thofe infeéts, which are the fcourge of that
country, became indeed very troublefome to us; and our gauze
veils and gloves could give us no prote€tion againft their finging in
our ears, and interrupting our fleep. Here our own refolution, as
that of our fervants formerly, for the firft time, began to be fhaken.
The landfcape at this place is pleafing: all along the banks you
have the birch and other trees, which form a contraft with the
uniformity of the pines and the firs. The face of the country is
rather flat, and it is only at a certain diftance that you difcover
hills of fome fize.
We
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