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THROUGH AN UxNKNOWN COUNTRY. 53
up rose the sun and scattered its showers of morning gold
over the river ; the mist disappeared, and a fresh day began,
bright and clear, but cool, after the first frosty night of
autumn.
A couple of days later the forest had everywhere turned
from green to gold, and once, after a fresh breeze, the
river was littered with fallen leaves, so that it was not
unlike a park avenue when the leaves begin to fall in
autumn.
As it grew colder, I sometimes exchanged my station
in the tent-opening, where I generally sat in the shade,
for a more sunny position in the canvas skiff, after it was
made comfortable with felt carpets and cushions. There,
pipe in mouth and drawing-materials on my knee, I
thoroughly enjoyed myself. As a rule, I kept a good bit
in front of the ferry-boat, so as to ensure perfect quietude.
In this way I glided round one river-bend after the other,
an occasional pull with an oar sufficing to avert a collision
with the bank.
On 17th October, we at last saw, after a long interval,
signs of human beings. A good bit ahead we perceived
a column of smoke and tongues of flame leaping up amongst
the trees on the bank. Now, thought I to myself, I shall
get information about the country on both sides of the
river here. Mollah declared that the fire was made by
shepherds to frighten the tigers and wolves away from their
flocks. When we drew nearer, we saw that there was a
big flock of sheep guarded by a couple of dogs and some
shepherds. But as for getting speech with the men,
the moment they caught sight of the ferry-boat, with its
spectral white tent and coal-black cabin, they turned
sharply to the rightabout, and, making the dust fly from
their sheepskin sandals, fled for dear life, leaving their
flocks to their fate. We shouted, we even sent out a
patrol to look for them, but it was all no use, we never
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