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EXPLORING THE LAKES OF TIBET. 203
they were several times longer than the boat, so that she
curved gently and obediently up and down their long rolling
swell. Immediately south of the cliffs where we fished I
had sounded a depth of 157-3- feet, but after that the lake
rapidly shallowed. The further we advanced from the
cliffs on the northern shore the more we became exposed
to the brunt of the tempest. What would happen in
this dense haze supposing the southern shore were flat and
shallow, and our little boat were flung like a nutshell
amongst the breakers. Fortunately, before we had tra-
velled half the distance, the hail-storm passed over, so that
we were, at all events, able to see where we were going.
But, at the same time, the velocity of the wind increased,
and the waves ran so high that, when we dipped down into
the troughs between them, the shore became entirely lost
to sight. Every now and then the sun shone through the
ragged storm-clouds, weirdly lighting up the crests of the
waves, which, bright as the backs of dolphins, glistened
and glinted in emerald green and deep blue, whilst at the
same time they were tipped with sparkling snow-white
tossing spray, which flashed like jewels in the sunshine.
This time, too, everything ended happily ; the storm
passed on farther across Holy Tibet, the wind dropped, the
features of the shore came out in sharp relief, and a
column of smoke showed us where to find the welcome
camp. From the lake we witnessed a glorious sunset : the
sun himself was hidden behind a cloud, but his rays broke
from beneath it and flooded the lake, making it glitter
and vibrate like quicksilver.
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