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246
CHAPTER XVII.
WATER ! WATER !
We began our journey through the desert on the 27th
January. For the first few days the ground was favour-
able—steppe diversified by low gentle hills. There was,
however, not a drop of water ; but against that we had
provided by loading two or three of the camels with ice.
After crossing over the last low ridge at the foot of the
mountains, we saw spread out before us the old familiar
picture—the ocean of sand, literally an ocean of gigantic
dunes. As usual, I went on first, partly to prevent myself
from getting frozen in the never-ceasing wind, and partly
that I might pilot the caravan.
On the 9th February we dug a well on the northern edge
of the sandy desert, which yielded us saltish water. When
we started again on the following day, we carried with us
sufficient ice to last men and horses, though not the camels,
for ten days. We now had before us the mountainous and
stony desert, where there was little prospect of finding
water ; I was weU awcire, therefore, that it was a venture-
some journey.
The country we now marched through was one of almost
incredible desolation and sterility ; it was the greatest
rarity to find even the footprint of a wild camel. Never-
theless, it afforded me the keenest gratification to traverse
it, for no European had ever before set his foot there, and
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