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FIRST CONTACT WITH THE TIBETANS. 331
the camels just revelled in its sappy lusciousness. When-
ever Tiirdu Bai came to a spot where this herb was growing
at all thickly, he invariably used to stop and let the camels
enjoy it for a while.
The next day, too, we had more rain and hail than we
really wanted. The thunder rumbled in the valleys,
making the horses restless and alarmed, while the camels
tried each to get behind the other, which of course
brought their loads into disorder. Meanwhile the moun-
tains around us were streaked with glittering snow. Not-
withstanding all the rain, we actually had difficulty in
finding water to drink that evening. The rain ran away
into the ground as fast as it fell, and the water in a little
pool there was near the camp was intensely salt. Shagdur,
therefore, taking a couple of copper vessels in his hands,
went to look for a spring. After a while he came back,
running fast and tremendously excited. He had been
attacked by a wolf, which had twice flown at him with
great determination, and he had had nothing in his hands
to defend himself with except the copper vessels. He had
now come to fetch his rifle, and to ask Sirkin to help him
hunt the wolf down. We saw it running off, a big shaggy
beast, almost white, and very soon it disappeared over a
neighbouring hill.
On we went across the low ridges, through the valleys,
and through the streams of salt water, on towards the
south-east. At length we saw on the right of our route a
big yak bull grazing alone. There was no need to shoot him,
but the Cossacks could not resist the temptation of setting
the dogs upon him. They, nothing loth, danced round the
yak, barking themselves hoarse. They were careful, how-
ever, to keep at a respectful distance, though whenever the
yak made a rush at Yolbars, Yoldash, the rascal, would
rush in and give a sly tug at his long side-fringes. Round
and round danced the yak, snorting and stamping, with his
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