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STARTING FOR LASSA. 349
Mongolian fashion, for, as we were determined to play our
parts thoroughly, there was nothing like beginning in time.
We three pilgrims turned into bed early, leaving Ordek
to watch the animals. There was a bright moon, and it
was fortunate for us that there was these nights.
On the 28th July I decided to take Ordek with us one
day further, partly that we might get another comfortable
night’s sleep and partly because the Lama was of a sudden
turned so ill that he could hardly sit upright in his saddle,
and I expected nothing but that he would have to return
to headquarters. I took council with Shagdur, and we
agreed that if the Lama did go back, we two would never-
theless push on alone. But, fortunately, the Lama recovered
during the ride of twenty-four miles we made next day.
The ground was hard, and we made good progress ; but
though there were plenty of yaks and kulans everywhere,
we saw not a single human being. Every now and again
one or other of us would ride to the top of a hill and search
the horizon with a glass. Had we seen a nomad encamp-
ment, we should, like the honest pilgrims we were, have
ridden quietly towards it ; but in that case Ordek would
have had to turn back instantly.
We encamped that night on a low narrow neck of land
between a salt-water lake and a smaller lake of fresh water.
Whilst gathered round the fire, we discussed the plan of
the journey. I calculated how far we had already come,
and how far we still had to go. The Lama painted in
vivid terms the strictness and severity with which the
Tibetan authorities at Nakk-chu examined all the pilgrims
from Mongolia. In consequence we decided that it would
be wisest to avoid Nakk-chu, and strike into the great Lassa
road, further south, where we hoped we might mingle with
the stream of pilgrims unobserved.
The time was now come for my outer man to undergo
a tragi-comical transformation. After I had taken my
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