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386 ADVENTURES IN TIBET.
the yak-himters of Camp No. XXXVIII. who had got us
into this fix.
All day mounted patrols were riding to and fro across
the plain. The Tibetans had mobilised to meet and check
the enemy who was invading their country from the north.
One of our visitors said frankly that they had been called to
arms because of our main caravan ; another that they were
only concerned to defend the holy land of Tibet.
On the 8th August I awoke half-suffocated by the horrible
smoke that filled the tent ; for as it was still raining hard,
Shagdur was baking bread inside. I found that a thick
coating of soot was adhering to the grease with which my
face had lately been smeared. The people brought us far
more mutton, butter, fat and milk, fresh and sour, than we
were able to consume, even with the dogs to help us.
When the everlasting cross-examination began again I
lost my temper, and told them that if they did not stop their
inquisitive questioning, I would drive them all outside, and
not let one of them come in again. They at once stopped
their questions, bowed politely, and said simply and
modestly, " Lakso ! Lakso !
" The Lama informed me
that they stood in terrible awe of me. It was evident they
had been commanded from Lassa to treat us with the
greatest possible respect, and that no harm would be done
to us. In a word, we were both their guests and their
prisoners, their friends and their enemies. The only one
of us who was uneasy was the Lama, ever since he had
learned that Kamba Bombo himself was coming to examine
us. The Lama had seen Kamba Bombo in Nakk-chu,
and knew that it was that chieftain who searched with such
close and strict jealousy all the caravans that go to Lassa,
and was responsible that no European passed him. More-
over, he called to mind that on one occasion a Mongol Lama
for some fault or other had forfeited his right to visit Lassa,
and in order to atone for his fault was made to travel aU
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