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4i6 ADVENTURES IN TIBET.
politely, of course—to go to the devil and not interfere
with my affairs, he replied resignedly and without fear,
" You may indeed take our lives, but so long as we live,
we shall do our very utmost to prevent you from march-
ing south."
Meanwhile the men were getting my little canvas skiff
ready. Then, after ordering the Cossacks to lead the
caravan down the right bank of the river, I embarked on
the broad stream with Ordek for my boatman. Down
we spun at a giddy pace. Now the Tibetans were en-
camped on the top of a cliff that shot down precipitously
into the river. The current was carrying us to the base
of the cliff. When the Tibetans saw this, they howled
and shrieked and gesticulated violently with both arms
and legs. What were they going to do ? It was rather
an anxious moment, for they might very easily upset us
by rolling a big stone down upon us. But fortunately
such an idea did not occur to them, and we safely weathered
the point of danger. It was a delightful and refreshing
trip sweeping round the curves between the high banks
in that comfortable fashion.
After spending the night on the bank with the rest of the
caravan, where we had the Tibetans for our nearest neigh-
bours, I continued again in the same way on the morrow.
Gradually the river widened out to nearly a mile. Towards
the south there appeared what looked almost like an
ocean, for land was not visible anywhere in that direction,
except the mountains which shut in the expanse of water
on the east. The weather was warm and delightful, but
owing to the mirage the mountains seemed to be raised
a little above the earth, while our camels, marching some
distance away, seemed to be walking on tall narrow
stilts. Meanwhile the river continued to widen out until
it became nearly i:^ miles in breadth, and at last its
banks fell away, and through a magnificent trumpet-
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