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STOPPED BY TIBETAN CAVALRY. 433
and shaking his fist at Hlajeh Tsering, he asked him how
he dared to talk of punishing a lama who was not a Tibetan
subject. As the row looked like ending in blows, I brought
out the musical box, and its soothing strains soon poured
oil upon the troubled waters.
In the evening I returned the visit of the Tibetan officers,
accompanied by Shagdur and the Lama, and spent no less
than five hours with them, laughing and talking. We
became the best of friends, as though we had known
one another for scores of years. We were entertained
with tea and tsamba ; while at one end of the tent incense
was rising before a small altar on which were several
idols.
On the 14th September I set out with Kutchuk and pro-
visions for three days for a sail on the lake of Nakktsong-tso,
a small lake lying south-west of the Selling-tso. It turned
out one of the most delightful trips I have ever made by
boat.
We started from the east shore of the lake and sailed
towards the west along the southern shore, which was
thickly dotted with nomads and their flocks and herds,
having arranged to meet the caravan at the north-west
corner of the lake. At length Kutchuk rowed into a kind
of bay, which narrowed rapidly. The rocks rose perpendi-
cularly on both sides, and against them the echoes of the
oar-strokes rang out sharp and resonant, and the water was a
bright emerald green . It was like entering the temple of some
mountain-king, with a glassy emerald floor. In fact, the
water was so transparent that we could see the algae and
other water-plants distinctly growing at the bottom. The
slightest sound trembled backwards and forwards from crag
to crag. Altogether it was very impressive. We instinc-
tively held our breath, for fear of disturbing the great and
holy silence. A couple of eagles were circling noiselessly on
motionless outspread wings, between the precipices, and
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