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CORDOBA 57
is for the Dane, sallying forth into the world, with
mind and heart full of homespun self-eulogy. So it is.
We cannot change things.
The Spaniards; too, are a self-confident nation, but
they do not care for the judgment of the world. They
too are the most excellent and enlightened people of
the earth, but they take no pains to explain why. They
simply state their characteristics—basta! And each of
them acts precisely as he pleases, indifferent to the
judgments of others as if none existed his superior or
his equal.
While the train rolls along, the door of our com-
partment is opened by one of the passengers, who steps
out on the running-board. He has an acquaintance in
one of the cars ahead, and crawls along the outside of
the train to meet him. The conductor tries to stop
him, but he will not listen. The man sitting opposite
me deposits his dirty feet on the seat next to me time
and time again. The conductor tries to stop him, too,
nor will he listen either. I soon learn to say nothing
on such occasions, but I do indulge in a motion which
throws his legs to the floor, whereupon he calmly hoists
them back. I decide finally to use vigorous methods,
to make evident to him—by means of an exaggeration
of his own act—how inconsiderate he is; I place both
my feet in his lap. At once he removes his legs from
my seat and sits up respectably—but only to make
things more comfortable for me and my feet!
Meals are frequent, but they eat very little at a time.
‘The food is frugal—dry bread and a little fruit; at
most, some tomato pickle is spread over the bread.
They use no other relish. One or two have a bite of
bacon-sausage or eggs. Whoever drops a piece of
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