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OUTHIER’S JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO THE NORTH. 335
left it at feven o’clock, going through avery unpleafant country, compofed of heath and
fand, and arrived on Friday, the ninth, at three o’clock in the morning, at Klappenborg,
all the inhabitants of which are Catholics. We departed at five o’clock, and by nine
reached the village of Largning, where we heard mafs. In this country they no longer
conform to the old ftile: the feaft of St. Laurence was celebrating, whofe mafs was
folemnly fung, accompanied by the organ.
We went afterwards to the town of Haffelune, thence to Lingen, and arrived on
Sunday, the twelfth, at two in the morning, at Nothoron, a {mall town, in which the
Catholics, Lutherans, and Calvinifts, each publicly exercife their religion. The pott-
matters of this country are not famous for their honefty ; they afked us twice what they
had a right to receive, and we were obliged to wink at their roguery, in order to get on.
We travelled over heaths almoft as far as Dolden, a large village, near which is a fine
caftle; there we came to a better country, as well in what regarded the foil as its in-
habitants.
When we pafled Dolden, we perceived many caftles, with fine avenues to them;
notwithitanding there yet was a quantity of heath, on which they cut turf, which is
almoft their only fuel. We arrived at the gates of Deventer, which were fhut, at mid-
night : we pafled the night in the fuburbs, and on Monday, the thirteenth, at fix o’clock,
entered the town, which is pretty, neat, and apparently well fortified. We took frefh
horfes there, and departed at feven o’clock: on leaving it we went over a handfome
floating bridge of boats. The country afterwards was beautiful for two miles from the
town: we then came to a very handfome and very large caftle, a fhort time before we
reached the poft-houfe ; afterwards a foreft of beech, andimmenfe heaths, without vil-
lages, until within a mile of Amersford, where the country begins to improve.
We faw there a great number of fields of tobacco, and feveral very long buildings
for drying it. We pafled through the town of Amesford, which is handfome and large;
the fortifications are not in repair. At midnight we arrived at Narden, as pretty a town
as poflible to be ; its fortifications are refpectable ; it is feparated by feveral canals, over
which are bridges. We continued our road along a canal until we arrived at Amiter-
dam, on ‘luefday, the thirteenth, at nine in the morning.
We had again the pleafure to meet with M.de Maupertuis; he had only arrived the
day before: the wind for a long time had been adverfe on his paflage, and the veffel
had been tempett toft. The reft of the day, and the fucceeding one, we employed in
examining the city and the port. Wednefday, the fourteenth, we embarked in a fchuyt,
where we were not very comfortable, till we arrived at Leyden: we there took another
boat, much more commodious, and more clean; and again another at Delft, which
conducted us to Rotterdam. All thefe towns are elegantly handfome, and yield nothing
in neatnels to Am{terdam.
The banks of the canal are adorned with magnificent houfes, and very fine gardens,
particularly oppofite to the Hague. On one of the bridges of Rotterdam is the brafs ftatue
of Erafmus, drefled as a Cordelier, holding a book in his hand. The veflels feen on
every fide in this town, on the canal, and on the river, offer a very fine {pectacle.
M. de Maupertuis hired two calafhes to continue ourjourney. Friday, the fixteenth,
at two in the morning, we croffed the Meufe in a large flat-bottomed boat ; at nine we
pafled the Scheldt, at a place where its waters are {topped by three fine locks, which
ferve to Jet down into the canal the barks and fmall veflels with which this prodigioufly
wide riveris covered. Near the locks there is a very large lanthern at the top of a matt,
with a ladder to go up to it.
We
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