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kasha (a kind of porridge), bread-and-butter, potatoes and
other vegetables, tea and coffee, the young Countess Maria
acting as hostess. Her elder sister, Tatiana, had also been at
headquarters, but had had to return home on account of failing
health. Maria Lvovna or “Masha,” as the Count calls her, is
a devoted follower of her father.
It had been arranged that I should accompany the Countess
Maria on her round through the villages. Dressed in a
polashubok (see illustration), felt boots, and a cap of Siberian
lambskin, she opened the door of my room and called out
“Ready.” In my Lapponian dress I came out and took my
place at her side in a sani, a primitive and unpainted sleigh,
drawn by a well-fed, little black horse. Just as we were starting,
I found that I had forgotten my gloves. “Here, take mine,”
said the Count, who stood by the side of the sleigh. Off we
went at whirling speed, the Countess holding the reins herself.
I believe that Russian ladies beat those of all other countries,
even in America, in horsemanship. I have often seen them
driving a troika, or sleigh, with three horses abreast. Certainly
the Countess knew how to drive. In a few minutes we had
passed the Don and were out on the desolate plains. The air
was keen and biting, and a blinding snowstorm swept over the
steppes; the road was destitute of the customary marks, and
we soon lost our way. After driving for some time with the
snow whirling about us so that we could not see the length of
the horse, she drew rein and said, “I think we must turn back
home. Soon we shall see nothing.” “Do you know the
direction of the village to which we are going?” I asked. “Yes.”
“Then let us try to get there.” “All right. Get up, Malchik!”
(Little Boy). Off we sped westward along an ice-covered ridge,
and after a time found the road again.
The Countess told me that she had worked for a number of
years among the peasants trying to help them. She had had
a school for peasant children on their estate, but as she did
not teach them to cross themselves nor to worship the
pictures of the saints, the priests had her school closed. Then
she invited the children to her house to tea, and continued to
teach them over the tea-table.
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