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110
SKAGEN.
Chap. XXXVI.
Behind the tower stands the residence of the people
employed at the lighthouse—the head man a retired
officer.
The melons of Skagen enjoy a considerable
reputation in the gastronomic world, and fish in considerable
quantities are exported to Sweden. The man at the
Phare takes a pride in his flowers: splendid oleanders,
passion-flowers, and picotees were blooming in his
parlour-window. Whilst on high we observed a curious
effect of the clouds over the Kattegat; three ships
appeared in the horizon, the mist separating them
from the water, giving them the effect of naval balloons
floating through the heavens. Skagen, too, boasts
one sepulchral tumulus—resting-place of some
stormloving Scandinavian. We now embark again, and
drive to the “Nose’s” point; stand one foot in the
North Sea, the other one in the Kattegat, and do—I
forget what, but something our host, who accompanied
us, told us was the correct thing. Huge masses of
glutinous substance, of brick-dust red and cobalt blue,
lie stranded on the shore, some three and four feet in
circumference, beautiful to look upon ; what a trouvaille
for a vivarium! These animals are said to possess
medicinal qualities; and at Sandifiord in Norway there
exists a sea-bathing place, where those who are martyrs
to rheumatic pains go and make a “ cure aux actineæ,”
bathe in the burning sand, and have their bodies rubbed
O 7 4
down with live jelly-fish.*
* Pontoppidan, worthy old prelate, does his very best to get up a
few remarkable events in honour of this the most northern village of
Jutland. In the year 1281 a fish very like, not a whale, but a lion,
ravaged the coast, devouring fishermen and women, cracking their
bones like filberts. Passing over a few awful battles with the North-
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