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Chat. XXXVI.
SWEET GALE.
Ill
We returned to our kro by the west coast, across the
downs, partly converted into heath. Sheep browse on
the waste, and the mutton is excellent, if such as we
had at breakfast—like our own Southdown, or the Pre
Sale so much esteemed in France.
Skagen has her flora : all the heathy tribe —
hollowlip (liullelæbe), lapwing’s-fat, and Our Lady’s
eye-tears,* as the peasants call them. Something
crushed fragrant under my feet; an old Jutlander
cries out to me from Ids cart, “ Gather some of that
shrub.” I do so, smell it, and highly aromatic it
proved to be—the sweet gale,f used both here and in
Germany for flavouring pale ale; in Danish called
Porse, like the duke. We pay our moderate bill and
start—N.B. The women varnished our
bottines—gratifying, but inconvenient, as the sand caked to them
like scouring-paper—and, after two hours’ drive, we
leave the sea and cross the moor land—a pleasant
change, as the day is cool and the air fragrant—till
we again arrive at Jerup, and stop to bait our horses
in their native stalls.
The Vendel boer, as they are here all called north of
the Liimfiorde, ushers us into his house, which reminds
me much of Brittany, with its ship-cabin beds and
carved chest of drawers, painted red and picked out in
men, we, in the IGth century, come upon a child born with two faces—
most inconvenient in this sand-driving country. Then Skagen has its
crack men. One, son of a fisherman, became Bishop of Stavanger ;
another Bishop of Zealand ; a third was Professor of Mathematics at
Copenhagen; and many others, all well known under the name of their
native town (Skagbo’, latinized into Scavenius.
* Epipactis palustris, Pinguicula, and Drosera.
t Myricagale,
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