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324
BORNHOLM.
Chap. LIL
those Zealand peasant-women in their lace caps, with
silver crown and flowing ribbons. It is not unlike a
cellaret—painted and picked out in various colours—
two hearts united under a wreath, with initials—the
wedding-chest of some happy pair long since gathered
to the dust.
The coasts of Sweden are flat and uninteresting;
after breakfast—breakfasts are excellent on board those
steamers—such lobsters and dried fish!—I mount in
time to admire the splendid old chateau of a Baron
Stjermblad, flanked by two lofty spiral turrets — a
Danish edifice built by the Danes when Skaane was
their own; then further a building, bigger still—the
summer residence of a Judge Sylvan; and then into
the little harbour of Ysted. We unload our cow-skins,
peasant-women in their quaint costume the porters.
Swedish hussar officers in blue uniform and turned-up
moustaches loiter and look on. We have exchanged
our red-cross pennon for one of yellow on a purple
ground, with a sort of hybrid union jack placed in the
corner.
The town of Ysted, commercial in corn, is clean—at
least it appears so after the dirty “ Mercurybut its
pavement outdoes the Danish in its eccentricity—rock
and pebble, pulverised tombstone, and yawning puddle,
all coalesce in friendly neighbourhood. Then too it
has a wide deserted look—not that “ motherly
appearance ” of the dull island towns of its sister Denmark.
We sail out again; the moon is up. Five hours’
passage at least, for the boat, though seaworthy, is
“ meget langsom; ” so I retire below. Towards
halfpast eleven in bounces the stewardess—“ Cpming strax
to Rønne.” On mounting, a flat, faint, dark line appears,
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