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Chap. LII.
RØNNE—SALMON.
325
so go down again and just get to sleep when the boat
stops, and we really are safe arrived. We mount the
cliff through the churchyard, behind which lies the haven
of our journey, a primitive but clean inn, looking through
the trees on the cemetery, and then, beyond, the sea
and a little flotilla of fishers’ boats—all very charming,
only bed is preferable to moon-gazing.
September 14th.—Order breakfast when you may in
Denmark, you have time to stroll and gain an appetite
previous to its arrival—no one is ever punctual; this
morning I had ample leisure to potter about and look
around me before my coffee (coming strax since
halfpast seven) was served and ready. A striped
low-housed town is Rønne, interspersed with trees, planted
to shade the windows: the view from the churchyard,
overlooking the harbour and its new-constructed jetty,
is picturesque. A small martello tower stands on the
cliffs to the left, dignified by the name of “ Arsenal.”
The little flotilla of fishing boats possess a harbour of
their own, and nestle comfortably together—they have
just returned laden with whiting and brill. There is
shipping to the right, shipping in dock, ships turned up
on end undergoing a cleaning operation, ships on the
stocks being built—altogether they present quite an
imposing appearance.
Bornholm enjoys a reputation for the excellence of
its salmon, which fetches a higher price in the market
than even that of Randers. The salmon are taken with
hooks at twelve English miles off shore. Every week a
vessel sails for Prussia; there the fish is disembarked, and
packed off as fast as express train can carry it to France,
reappearing in the windows of Chevet and other
restaurants of tnc Parisian capital. Rønne boasts another
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