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COSTUME.—A JOLLY BOATMAN. 253
and silver-gilt trinkets hanging from the neck; I am
not sufficiently versed in jewellery to give them a name,
but they may be described as cup-shaped buttons
without shanks, or brooches. They wear them about the
neck; and when they have a sufficient number they
make a necklace of them; while those who possess but
two or three, simply hang them in the front of the
neck. The men also wear large silver brooches in
their shirt-fronts, and fasten the shirt-neck with
silver-linked buttons.
The road now passes over a small fjeld on to Ulvik,
a water station, where I tried to get a boat. The
station-master, who was evidently endowed with the
natural instincts of an hotel-keeper, did his best to hinder
me and force me to take two men, or stop for the night
at his house: this sort of dodging, however, is almost
unknown in Norway. At first I asked for a boat; and
a boat and one man was about to start, as a matter of
course; but when he found that I wTas an Englishman,
he stoutly maintained that two men were necessary, and
I was kept above an hour waiting for the second man.
At last I paid the host his tilsigelse, or fee for calling
the boat, got in with the one man, taking an oar myself,
and we pulled off, to the great chagrin of the landlord
(the payment is twenty skillings per man per mile) and
the satisfaction of the one boatman, a jolly fellow, with
a club-foot and one eye, who evidently disliked the
landlord and enjoyed his disappointment. As soon as
he learnt how far I had walked, he insisted upon taking
the oar from me, made a bed with his jacket and some
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