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254 THROUGH NORWAY WITII A KNAPSACK.
canvas, and would not go on until I laid down
comfortably and arranged myself for the night, which was
now coming on.
The night was very beautiful on the water; one by
one the stars broke through the darkening curtain of
the sky above, and the daylight lingered in the north,
shining out from behind the purple edge of the sharp
mountain ridges. I lay down lazily at the bottom of
the boat; the old man rowing and singing the rude
spontaneous music of a happy unselfish heart; then the
daylight passed quite away, all the stars shone at their
very best, and several meteors trailed along the sky.
At about midnight we reached Vik, the station from
which all tourists start to see the great Voring Foss. I
invited the one-eyed boatman to take supper with me, at
which he was much delighted; though the supper was
very rude, nothing but bread, and butter, and cheese,
and ale being to be had, though this house is so much
frequented. This station is a very poor one: a small
jackall to so great a lion as the Voring Foss; but when
Norway grows more fashionable, as it doubtless must,
there will probably arise a considerable hotel hereabouts.
The next morning I started on the way to the
waterfall, making first for the Eidfiord Lake, and crossing
it to Saebo. There is a fine example of a raised beach
or terrace on this small lake. The valley above is very
wild and grand, well worthy of a visit for itself,
independently of the fall. It is terminated by a wrall of
rock that seems quite impassable, reminding one of the
approach to the foot of the Gemmi Pass. A rough
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