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278 THROUGH NORWAY WITII A KNAPSACK.
of the way having been over bogs and moraines, up and
down mountains, &c. There is an immense number of
small lakes 011 the fjeld, especially towards the latter
part of this walk.
I found quite a fertile country at the journey’s end,
and a considerable number of farms. I stopped at one
belonging to a man whom I overtook on the way. My
host was a bachelor for the time, and alone in the
house; his wife and family being at the saeter. He
cooked me some coffee, and gave me fladbröd and
cheese, of which I made a hearty meal.
I have found that the coffee is always good in Norway,
even at the poorest places; and this, I think, is partly
attributable to the mode of preparation, and partly to
the fact that the stock of coffee berries at a farm is laid
in only at long intervals, and thus it often happens that
they have been kept for a long time. It is a fact worth
knowing that the quality of coffee is much improved by
keeping the berries for a length of time in the raw
state: it has even been asserted that the commonest
coffees, if kept a sufficient length of time, may acquire
the aroma and flavour of the best Mocha. A ripening
action takes place, which develops an increased
quantity of the volatile aromatic oil, 011 the quantity of which
the flavour of the coffee mainly depends. Moreover, the
Norwegian farmers always roast the coffee as required,
and grind and infuse it while still hot. The apparatus
commonly used for roasting it is a sort of covered
shovel, or tray, made of sheet-iron, and riveted to an
iron handle. This is put into the fire, and the berries
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