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122 SWEDENBORG’S TRAVELS AND DIARIES. [Doc. 206.
are fountains in it , and also an orangery. It would require
several days to see and describe it all.
October 5. I saw the palace where the Pretender * lives,
which is almost opposite to that occupied by the French em
bassy ; it is situated between the Church of the Apostles [SS.
Apostoli
], and that of S. Maria di Loreto, which is at a greater
distance. Afterwards I visited outside the town the church
.
of S. Stefano rotondo, where all the martyr scenes are de
picted. It is a singular building, round, with pillars in the
wall. In the middle is a tabernaculum, built by Numa and
consecrated to Faunus, the largest of those times ; others say
it was dedicated to Hercules ; it is encased in marble. I
visited again the amphitheatre of Vespasian [the Coliseum] ,
built for 87,000 persons, and finished by Titus. Games were
held there [at its opening] for one hundred days, which cost
ten millions of Roman scudi. It was built by the Jews (the
Palazzo Farnese was built of its stones) ; it is called Colloseo,
from the colossal statue of Nero in front of it.
October 6. I was at the Villa Mattei, where the Mons
Cælius was formerly; all around here was the real Rome, the
walls of which are still visible, reaching to S. Giovanni in
Laterano. In the garden are many small square urns, a little
obelisk, and many ancient statues ; in the building also are urns,
together with columns and various old statues. The garden is
small, but no other contains so many urns. A colossal head of
Alexander the Great is here ; also a table of green porphyry.
Afterwards I was in the Church of S. Giovanni in Laterano,
which was built by Constantine the Great, and is the oldest
Christian church in the world. Many relics are near the altar :
the heads of Peter and Paul, under a rich tabernacle or shrine ;
a famous column of metal filled with stones from the sepulchre
of Christ. Statues of the twelve apostles in marble are there,
larger than life-size ; likewise the burying vaults of many popes
and others ; the most pompous of these is that of the present
pope, Clement XII, with a sarcophagus of porphyry, hand
some images of marble, and an altar-piece in mosaic. The
façade of the building has also been finished by him in a
* James Francis Edward Stuart, son of James II, who styled himself
James III ; the so-called elder Pretender.
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