Full resolution (JPEG) - On this page / på denna sida - CHAPTER I. Contrasts — Development of Norwegian tourist traffic — Passengers on the ‘Argo,’ and their tub of introduction — Whales — The Norwegian coast — Stavanger — Glacier vestiges in the High Street — Bergen — Indoor ivy — A Church of England Service conducted in the spirit of Primitive Christianity — Northward Ho! — Aalesund — Christiansund — Delay and disappointment — Trondhjem — Northern luxury — The Cathedral — The Falls of the Nid — A terraced valley — Prosperous farmers — The “Störhaus”— Glacial origin of the terraces.
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spontaneously and irreverently associate
themselves with stage “properties.” This is, of course,
very naughty, but I cannot help it; the richer
the vestments and the more ornate the service
(good music excepted), the more and more stagey
and got-up the whole performance appears.
July 12th.—After settling the important
business of cashing circular notes and obtaining a
supply of small change—a necessary provision for
all travellers in Norway—we embark on the
‘Arcturus,’ and start at about 1 p.m. for Trondhjem.
The Bergen weather continued until about 9 p.m.,
when the sun broke through the clouds and gave
us our first display of the glories of Northern
sunset and twilight. The coast hereabouts is
picturesque, wild, and rocky, with a multitude of
islands, between which the vessel threads her way,
guided by a local pilot. One of the largest of
these, the ponderous mass of a dark purple insular
mountain, blotted out the sun just as he was setting
about an hour before midnight, and the effect of
the glowing rays pouring away on all sides of the
huge shadow in which we were enveloped, and
copper bronzing the smooth reflecting surfaces of
the southward rocky islands and promontories,
was very splendid.
July 14th.—Several of the ‘Argo’ passengers
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