Full resolution (JPEG) - On this page / på denna sida - CHAPTER I. Contrasts — Development of Norwegian tourist traffic — Passengers on the ‘Argo,’ and their tub of introduction — Whales — The Norwegian coast — Stavanger — Glacier vestiges in the High Street — Bergen — Indoor ivy — A Church of England Service conducted in the spirit of Primitive Christianity — Northward Ho! — Aalesund — Christiansund — Delay and disappointment — Trondhjem — Northern luxury — The Cathedral — The Falls of the Nid — A terraced valley — Prosperous farmers — The “Störhaus”— Glacial origin of the terraces.
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are on board. We land some of them at Aalesund,
a snug little town nestled amidst bare rocks and
rocky islands, like those among which we sail all
day. By continually surrounding us they form
a multitude of channels and sea lakes. The season
is late, the north wind is blowing still, though
the usual date of his departure is past, and
consequently the snow lies thickly in the hollows of the
larger masses of rock, some of which are very fine.
We reach Christiansund at 9 p.m. It is a
beautiful little wooden Scandinavian Venice, with its
grand piazza in the centre, and main streets
branching therefrom. The piazza is a circular
lake of sea, and the main streets are broad lanes
of salt water, separating from each other the
different quarters of the town, which is built on three
islands. We leave it at about midnight, passing
through a rock-walled, sea-paved gully, about as
wide as a main-line railway cutting.
July 15th. — The ‘Arcturus’ is disgracefully
behind her time, and we have now but little
hope of catching the North Cape packet. This
experience of the uncertainty of these coasting
steamers adds another reason for choosing the
route viâ Christiania and over the Dovrefjeld.
The time required for this overland journey may
be estimated, and the estimate fulfilled; as it is
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