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II.
Russia is an agricultural country. There are
comparatively few cities. The provincial towns all resemble
one another. When you have seen one or two, you know
them all. Such a provincial town has a public park, a
cathedral, a governor’s palace, and a hospital. So much
is essential; the remainder depends on the better or
worse condition of the inhabitants. Still, there is one
and a very important thing you are sure to find—a
prison,—and in a country town like Lomja, which has a
population of twenty-five thousand, there is one with
six hundred inmates.
Life in such a Russian country town, on a clear
summer day, however little it may be praised by native
authors, sometimes appears very attractive. The gay
costumes, the red shirts of the men and the embroidered
jackets of the women, shine brightly in the sun. Of those
which I have seen, Briansk, a manufacturing town on
the river Diesna, was a type of the Russian monotony.
On the other hand, Smolensk[1] is delightfully
situated on both banks of the Dnieper. The larger part of
the town is on the left bank, which has a steep descent
to the river, so that the numerous domes and spires of
the churches, seen from the opposite side, appear
towering over the landscape in strong relief. The general
situation, however, on account of the flatness of the land,
is not attractive, and the town, therefore, is only
[1] Pronounced Smahlyensk, with the accent on the last syllable.
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