Full resolution (JPEG) - On this page / på denna sida - VI. The Upper Lena
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limestone pinnacles, or the picturesque strata of slate which
formed the cliffs, all mirrored in the calm surface of the
river, while gigantic blocks of ice, though we were still at
the beginning of June and at the same degree of latitude
as northern Germany, lay here and there upon the shores.
From time to time we stopped at a village, which, with its
monotonous row of small grey or smoke-blackened houses
on each side of the village-street, produced a melancholy
impression, which was still more strengthened by the looks
of the inhabitants, who, consisting largely of exiles and
their descendants, betrayed both physical and moral misery.
As soon as the steamer stopped, a crowd of rag-covered
and evil-smelling beggars would congregate at the
landing-place, asking for alms in piteous tones.
In places the river widened, enclosing islands, on which
small horses and a few equally small cattle were grazing;
and often we passed pauski and kayuki, silently
dropping down the river with the current. The navigation of
the upper Lena is not without its dangers, owing to the
many shallows. During the first 24 hours of our voyage
we passed several craft, mostly pauski, which had run
aground, and our steamer lost much time in trying to
help some of them afloat. Finally the barge towed by
our own vessel ran aground, and we worked a whole night
trying to get it afloat without succeeding. Fortunately,
however, another steamer came up, and by her we were
able to proceed to Ust-Kutsk. Even to steamers navigation
on the upper Lena is risky, because the numerous
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