Full resolution (JPEG) - On this page / på denna sida - XVII. Across the Tundra to the Anabar
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the delta, who are very fond of making long speeches, and
having administered medical aid to some sick persons, we
took a solemn farewell of our dog-drivers and of the good
people of Volkalak, and started for the camp of the Tungus
chief, where we arrived after dark, finding about 200 fine
reindeer collected round the tents.
The chief had pitched a special tent for us, where we
put up. Later in the evening he made me understand
that I would do him a great honour if I would come and
spend the night in his own tent. I at once accepted, and
on moving in with my things I was welcomed with that
genuine and cordial hospitality which characterises the real
Tunguses. Later on my companions were invited, and we
were all treated to delicious frozen fish, reindeer-marrow,
frozen reindeer-milk,—which with hot tea is most nutritious
and excellent—and boiled reindeer-meat; we in our turn
treating the family to tea, tobacco, and a glass of rum.
Both men and women wore dresses of reindeer-skin, the
high boots and the pelts being tastefully ornamented with
glass beads, etc. The chief and his wife had healthy,
good-looking children, for whom they evinced much affection,
the children in their turn showing reverential attachment
to their parents. The chief’s mother also lived with them.
She was 80 years old, and blind, but otherwise hale and
lively, talking and laughing with the rest. Not only in
this instance, but everywhere during my travels in northern
Siberia I have invariably found that the genuine pagan
reindeer-nomads stand on a much higher level physically,
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