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house had been roused long before us by her hospitality—my
baggage was taken forward in a boat by my
host, because the car could not safely have been brought
to the house.
The road at first was very rocky and troublesome,
but our driver was careful, and the horses accustomed
to the frequent and sudden acclivities and descents;
so that, not apprehending any danger, I played with
my girl, whom I would not leave to Marguerite’s care,
on account of her timidity.
Stopping at a little inn to bait the horses, I saw the
first countenance in Sweden that displeased me, though
the man was better dressed than any one who had as
yet fallen in my way. An altercation took place between
him and my host, the purport of which I could
not guess, excepting that I was the occasion of it, be
it what it would. The sequel was his leaving the
house angrily; and I was immediately informed that
he was the custom-house officer. The professional had
indeed effaced the national character, for, living as he
did with these frank hospitable people, still only the
exciseman appeared, the counterpart of some I had met
with in England and France. I was unprovided with
a passport, not having entered any great town. At
Gothenburg I knew I could immediately obtain one,
and only the trouble made me object to the searching
my trunks. He blustered for money; but the
lieutenant was determined to guard me, according to
promise, from imposition.
To avoid being interrogated at the town-gate, and
obliged to go in the rain to give an account of myself
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