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A TRIP TO INDLA.—HOME. 475
House I had the honour to be present at a couple of state
dinners and state balls, the magnificence of which equalled
anything to be seen at the great Courts of Europe. What
a change ! For the past 2\; years I had been cut off from
the world, travelling through the deserts and mountains
of Central Asia, subject to every privation and hardship,
and here I was now surrounded by the choicest refinements
of civilization. Only a week or^two ago I was painfully
On the Way up the Zoji-la.
struggling across the inhospitable wilds of Tibet at alti-
tudes of 15,000—16,000 feet, with the thermometer down
a dozen degrees or so below zero, where the arkhari and
yak alone leave their footprints in the snow ;
whereas
now I was strolling under the palms beside the Indian
Ocean amid a scene bathed in light and warmth. Quite
recently I was visiting in the dirty, reeking tents of the
Tibetans ; now I was being entertained in EngUsh drawing-
rooms, amid flowers and entrancing music, by lovely ladies,
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